WALKING IN THE ‘HOOD

We took a walk to Càndes with Ted. We walked the back way through the Z.I. Jardin. All the gardens looked very nice – cabbages in their rows, asparagus in their trenches, and all standing up perky waiting for someone to pass by and admire them.
We walked up to the lookout point above the town. From there we had a fine view across the valley. We could clearly see where the two rivers come together – the muddy brown of the Loire and the green-brown of the Vienne. We also could see the nuclear power plant at Avoine with its cooling towers making new clouds.
As we made our way back down through the town we decided to stop at the new location of the little pottery store, Pots et Deco. Up until now they were located in a small cramped storefront but this year they have moved to a more spacious building with a patio in front where they serve tea and coffee. The woman who owns the business has partnered with her brother to a create a wine boutique in the celler. We spent most of the rest of the afternoon down below tasting wines of Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. Damien, the proprietor, doesn’t yet have a license to sell wine for consumption on the premises. Ted wanted to crack open a bottle that he had bought but Damien counseled against that for fear the gendarmerie would close him down.
Instead we went back upstairs to have a little tea and coffee. We also tried some handmade chocolate from Saumur. By the time we were finished we were ready to head back home to Montsoreau to take a long afternoon nap.

TOUR OF TOURS

After we picked up Ted and Rich we went for a walkabout to see a little of Tours.
We walked through little alleyways and narrow pedestrian streets into Vieux Tours. We stopped at a beautiful church that was part of a monastery of cloistered monks. As we were leaving the curé called us back to give us a personal tour. It turns out that this church is the headquarters of the Levequists – a group of followers of Archbishop Leveque, the super traditional, fundamentalist theologian who was excommunicated for daring to oppose the reforms of the Second Vatican Council.
We walked through the markets area of the city. Close to the Place de Grand Marché we found the Rue de Jerusalem. I wondered if this area had been the Jewish quarter in days gone by. A little further on we found the Rue des Deportés a clear sign that many Jewish people walked along this road to the train station to be taken to their deaths.
There are other signs of a rich past in Tours. We found several brass plaques showing the way to Santiago de Compostela. We found the place where Balzac was born. We took some pictures of the beautiful Beaux-Arts façades of the train station and the hotel-de-ville. We finished our tour of Tours with drinks in Olde Towne on the Place de Grand Marché.

TOURS

I waited all day for Christophe to come pick me up so we could drive to Tours to meet Rich and Ted. Before that though I had to go to the garage in the morning to see about the car. Vincent, the mechanic, remembered having worked on the car before. He said he would go get it and tow it and tow it back to Montsoreau.
Christophe. We whizzed through some beautiful villages that I would like to go back and explore.
We arrived in Tours and found parking in an underground lot in the place in front of the train station. The bus station is also in this place. We needed to meet Ted from the Paris train and Rich was flying in from Dublin but I had told him to take the 5 euro shuttle to the train station.
Ted’s train arrived exactly as scheduled. We walked around for a little wondering why Rich had not arrived yet. Eventually, we decided to go to a café at the edge of the place where we could keep an eye on the arriving buses. After about 30 minutes I went to look for him again and found him sitting in front of the train station, munching a sandwich (jambon et beurre).

FROGS LEGS

Christelle, ready to go through the arches of Souzay.

We cycled back to Saumur together. Christelle knew all the back roads through Turquant, Souzay, Parnay. We got a good workout.
When we arrived at their apartment Christophe was busy making his specialité de maison: frogs legs and a tripe dish that resembled menudo. The frogs legs (cuisse de grenouille) were sautéed in butter and garlic with a generous helping of parsley. I had never had frogs legs before. They were delicious. They tripe dish was also very good.
After dinner we went walking in Saumur. There was a fête musicale going on with stages set up in different streets for different kinds of live music. It was close to midnight when Christelle took me home.

THIZAY

Nico atop the dolman in Thizay.

Today was to be my last day taking care of Nico. His mom promised to be back home by midday so that I could meet with Christelle and Christophe for the Fête de Vélo. We drove to Montsoreau for the weekly market. Montsoreau was already crowded with cyclists and some of the access roads were closed. We walked around the market then went for coffee at the Lion D’Or. Nico greeted a classmate who was there with his family.
I took Nico to see the dolman in Thizay. The church was closed but we continued up the narrow road behind it to the dolman. The dolman sits right at the edge of the road looking out across the valley towards the centre nucleaire in Avoine. We climbed up to the top and scrambled all around – two buddies having fun together. Then we went for a walk across the fields in search of the adjacent holy well. We found a some cherry trees with bright red cherries hanging from the branches. I ate my fill but Nico was not impressed by the tartness.
We drove back to LaBlanchière. Karen had just arrived. I deposited Nico with his mom and took off, grateful that my work was done and my vacation could begin in earnest.

MORE CAR TROUBLES

The Jaguar seemed fine as I left Karen’s to pick up my bike and drive to Saumur. The gas light came on a couple of times and given that the fuel gauge doesn’t work I thought it wise to stop in Càndes for 20 euros worth of carburent.

My bike had a flat back tire but I knew Christelle had a pump so I stuffed the bike in the back of the car and took off flying for Saumur. The main road was closed because of the Fête du Vélo so I had to take a deviation through Varennes. Right after I turned left onto the D10 I heard the most terrible noise coming from under the car. I pulled over to investigate – the muffler had fallen off. I called Christophe. They arrived after about 20 minutes and confirmed the diagnosis. Christophe advised me not to drive the car. We left it parked at the side of the road in front of the house of a very strange man (How strange? The fly of his Levi’s was repaired by a homemade button job.)

We pumped up the back tire of my bike. I cycled back to Montsoreau, a distance of about 10 km and waited for Christelle to arrive from Saumur on her bike.

DUNCAN

Nico enjoying his second ice cream.

We sat for a while outside the sports bar café on the Place du Mail. The other café, the Lion D’Or, was temporarily closed as they set up for a soiree musicale. Nico had two ice creams while I enjoyed a quiet moment with my glass of red wine.
We took a walk to the church but it was closed. On the way back we saw Duncan sitting at the café with his mom. We stopped to chat. Duncan’s mom took Nico to the Vivico store to buy some cookies. She couldn’t quite make herself understood so she asked me to help. I took the opportunity to introduce myself to the new owner of the store and his wife.



St. Pierre-des-Rest, Montsoreau

AVOINE

Nico at swimming pool in Avoine.

After lunch with Christophe and Christelle we all went to Avoine to spend the afternoon at the swimming pool. Christophe is a kind of grown up version of Nico – a big kid. He took charge of Nico, splashing about in the various pools and making multiple trips down the water slide. Christelle and I sat in the shade reading our books. We stayed at the pool until it closed. They were going shopping (a euphemism for private couple’s time?) so me and Nico headed to Montsoreau.

CAR TROUBLES

The Jaguar

Saturday is Nico’s day for his gymnastics class. It is very hard to get him up in the morning but I managed. He likes going to the gymnastics class. The jaguar started up right away and we arrived a little early for the class at 10 o’clock. I left him there in Beaumont-en-Véron and drove back to Avoine for my morning coffee and a read of the Saturday paper. With plenty of time to spare I went to get the car from the parking lot of the Shopi. The car started right up but when I stopped at the intersection the engine stalled and cut out. I was stuck in the intersection with people behind me shouting insults at my poor old car. I asked two men to help me push it out of the intersection. One of them suggested that I try to start it again and miracles of miracles it started as if there was never any problem.

When I finally arrived back in Beaumont Nico was waiting outside with a look of forlorn on his face. I think he thought he had been abandoned.

Christelle and Christophe had invited us to come for lunch in Saumur. Christelle made a pear tart with a blue cheese, Fourme d’Ambert, that is all the rage. Nico tried it but he didn’t like it. He got up to leave the table, saying that he was finished. Christelle looked at him straight in the eye and in her sternest school-teacher voice told him that he was not excused and could not leave the table until everybody was finished lunch. He sat back down for the salad course.

TRES BON ELEVE

GRENIER

J'AI ARRIVÉ

I have finally arrived - I got my library card from the library (mediatheque) in Avoine.
We went to Avoine for Nico's gymnastics class and ended up spending the day there. the nuclear power industry has been good to Avoine. They have a sporting complex that includes the salon polyvalente (multisports gym), a swimming center, a cultural center, as well as this brand-new library. The downside to all this is that the region is neighbors to a nuclear power plant. We were reminded of this yesterday when I received notice in the mail that I should go to one of the listed pharmacies to pick up my iodine kit for radiation emergencies.

While Nico was at his gymnastics I wandered into the town to get a cup of coffee and read the newspaper. When I came back to pick him up we went to the library for an hour. The swimming pool didn't open until after lunch so we walked back into town to get a sandwich and have a picnique in a little park. By the time we were finished and had explored the church it was time to go back to the swimming pool. We spent the afternoon there; Nico splashing about with some new friends and me reading my book.

GETTING MY BEARINGS

Karen came by today. She had business to conduct in Chinon. I went with her for the ride.
At the computer place in Chinon I Skyped Rich and talked with him for about 30 minutes. I am so proud of how computer literate he is - Skyping, Facebooking, IMing - you've come a long way, baby.
All the same people still work at the computer place in Chinon, especially the young woman who helped us so much last year. She instantly recognized me as if I had just been in the store last week.
In the evening I met up with Christophe and Christelle who came by the house to look at the car. Christophe had it running in no time. His diagnosis was spot on - the battery had low from not having been driven for a while. I invited them to join us at Karen's house for dinner. I am taking care of Nico for a week while Karen is on a road trip.

CHATEAU MARÇAY

Despite their advanced industrial and technological economy (probably number 7 in the world after California) the French have not mastered some things. Karen had to swing by this chateau to pick up some ice. (They also cannot make a decent SaranWrap).

CANDES WALK

I woke up early this morning. I guess I am excited to be back chez-nous in Montsoreau.
I pottered about for a while then walked down to the center to pick up the paper and a croissant for my breakfast. The bakery lady gave me my first French lesson – une croissant, un pain. She was very happy to see me (and I her). Back at home I made some coffee and settled in to read the newspaper.
I hung out for a little, doing some gardening, and generally tidying up in front and in the back. I said hello to our fish. At least two of the fish survived the winter.
I decided to take a walk down to Càndes to see what changes have happened there. I bonjoured the mayor of Montsoreau along the way and Batboy whizzed past me on his bike. I’m already back in the swing of things in Montsoreau.
There have been some changes in Càndes. The Deco Pots pottery has moved into a bigger space and now offers tea and coffee. The little antique store, Table des Metiers, is a new fancy gift shop. And everything looks painted and spruced up for the season.

CHEZ-NOUS

Hollyhock Jungle

I took the shuttle from the airport to the center of Tours. The shuttle lets out right in front of the train station. Even though I love visiting Nantes I have to admit that everything is a lot more convenient in Tours.
I bought my ticket and settled down with a sandwich and LeMonde for the hour-long wait for my train.
I texted Christophe several times to let him know where I was. I had no way to call him since I had no credits on my French phone and my Irish phone is not working properly. The texts were a shot in the dark.
The train left on time and arrived exactly on time in Saumur. It seems that everything just works in France. I know that there is a bureaucratic procedure for everything in France but when you get in tune with that bureaucracy life rolls along smoothly.
Christophe was waiting for me at the train station. We drove the short distance to the apartment he shares with Christelle on the Quai Mayaud.
After a little rest we headed out to Montsoreau. Along the way we stopped at the E. Leclerc to pick up some groceries.

TOURS

Just landed in Tours and the sun is blazing – way to go France!

The wedding turned out to be a great event – lots of dancing, lots of singing, no fighting. Aimée and Brad have set a new standard for the family.
Gemma had been feeling under the weather for the whole week that I was in Dublin. Despite that she generously gave up her room and her bed so that I would have a comfortable place to sleep. At the wedding she started to feel bad again and left the reception early to go straight to bed. Naturally, she wanted to sleep in her own bed. When the rest of us got home (towards one in the morning) I didn’t want to wake her so that I could get my things ready for what I knew would have to be an early start in the morning.
Fortunately, Helen woke up early next day and roused the household. I was already up and ready to go. I checked the schedule for my flight and realized we only had an hour or so to get to the airport. I tried to check-in online but that time window was already closed. We made a mad dash for the airport through crazy Dublin traffic, but we made it. I had to pay an additional 20 euro to check in before I could get my boarding pass.
The flight across was uneventful – except for my seat mates from Belfast who tried to get a glass of free water. I guess this was their first time on Ryanair where nothing is free. They had to settle for a 3 euro bottle of mineral water which cost them even more since they only had Sterling to pay with.

BAD WEDDING VIDEO

AIMÉE AND BRAD'S WEDDING BLESSING

SCHOOLHOUSE LANE

Old Saint Audeon's Church


New Catholic church built in the 19th century.
This is now a centre for Polish Catholics living in the Capital.




A view down Schoolhouse Lane.

Helen drove Brad and I into James Hospital. Brad got the car and I hoofed it down James' Street into the city centre. Along the way I stopped at St. Audeon's Church. There is a new interpretative centre for visitors. I was the first one throught the door so I had the guide to myself. Apparently this parish church is one of the oldest churches with continuous worship in Dublin. It was built by the Normans on the site of an earlier Viking church. The restoration is impressive. There were many explanatory panels detailing the importance of this church in the history of Dublin. I learned about the Great Explosion in 1597 that killed more than 126 people and damaged nearly every building in the city, including the two cathedrals. After the explosion the cramped city pushed out of the confines of it's walls and started the urban expansion and development that continues today.

This walk passes by another wonderful building - the Augustinian church. The church was built on the site of an Augustinian monastery that was established during the Norman period in the 12th century. The interior has stained glass windows by Harry Clarke.

SMITHFIELD HORSE FAIR

I took a long walk through the city centre today after a long walk along the Liffey and a long walk around St. James' Hospital. One of the first things I came across was the Smithfield Horse Fair.

LIFFEY WALK

Yesterday was a complete washout. Today I was excited by a little sun. After visiting Carmel at the hospital we drove to Islandbridge to walk along the Liffey. We walked through the Irish National War Monument Park, along the Liffey as far as Chapelizad . We saw swans and herons, ducks and ducklings. This part of the river is home to several rowing clubs. We saw several teams rowing up and down the river.
As you would expect from the name (Chapelizod = séipéal Iosáid = Iseult's chapel) Iseult of mythology is reputed to be buried here.

SAINT JAMES HOSPITAL

I went to visit Carmel in the hospital today. Timmy and Helen were going to take her out to church so I decided to join them.

GREENTREES ROAD

Brad and Aimée picked me up at the airport. The flight was a little bit early but they were there anyway. Brad is the only one in the house (beside’s Timmy and Helen, who can drive). It was lashing down rain as I stepped out of the plane and it hasn’t stopped since. Typical Irish Summer.
Brad and Aimée are at home and Gemma and Andrew are too. That makes for a crowded house – but jolly in a Dickensian way. The only person missing is Carmel who is still in rehab from the stroke. She will be at the wedding but goes straight back to the hospital afterwards.
Brad’s mom and stepdad are touring Ireland in a rental car. The last text from them had them in Galway heading for Kerry. They will be back for the wedding, barring running into a sheep.
After I got to the house I tried to stay up for a little so that I could go to bed a the regular time. No dice. Brad has the household mad keen on cricket so we watched highlights of the Dutch beating England. When did Holland become a cricketing powerhouse?
After half an hour I started to nod off (must have been the riveting cricket game). I went upstairs for a liedown and slept until the Ireland versus Bulgaria soccer match woke me up.

Bhí an cead pionta Guinness agam anocht. Chuamar thall go teach Catherine agus Colman thart faoi a deich a' chlog. D'fhan Helen ann le Catherine agus chuaigh Timmy agus Colman liom go dtí "The Two Sisters". Chuamar ann i ngluaisteán nua Colman. Tar éis cúig phiontaí ní raibh Colman i ndán an gluaisteán a thiomáint abhaile. Bhí ormsa an carr a thiomáint (ní raibh ach pionta amháin agam ag tús an oíche).
Is cineál seanachaí é Colman. Is maith leis caint faoi a chlann. Anocht bhí sé ag scealaíocht faoi a dhreathair agus na fadhbanna ina shaoil de bharr an deoch.

SFO - DUB

We got to the airport real early so that we could do a little socializing before the flight. I had already checked in and printed the boarding pass at home so there wasn’t much of a wait in line at the airport. Rich waited for me at the café close to the security entrance. I got myself a latte and joined him but as soon as I sat down he spotted a former colleague, Fred Chin. He called Fred over to our table. It seems Fred was at the airport have lunch with a friend. They weren’t going anywhere – just having lunch together. Who knew the airport was the new hangout place.
Fred brought us up to speed with his life since we last saw him when he was working at ISA. He had some bad experiences at Lowell High School. He transferred to Galileo where he had more bad experiences and decided to call it a day on his career. He is happily retired. He is married to a Frenchwoman and like us travels frequently to France. He has been taking the same class at City College that Tim took but doesn’t think his French is great yet.
We left Fred to find his friend. After a quick walk around the terminal we headed for security and the long slow shoeless, beltless walk through the gates. A quick kiss and I was on my way.

Thanamar go luath ar an aerfort. Ni raibh faidhb ar bith agam dul fríd an líne agus an mala a fhagáil ann (Níl ach 15 kilos agam – an meachan is fearr le dul ar Ryanair níos deanaí.) Bhuail mé le Rich arís. Bhí sé ag fánacht orm sa chaife taobh amuigh don geata. Díreach tar éis domh suí síos leis chonaic sé duine, cuid den foireann ISA, a bhí aithne mhaith aige air. Bhí Fred Chin mar múinteor stáire ag an scoil nuair a bhí an beirt again ag obair ann. Ar aon nós tá sé imithe as an múinteoracht. Tá sé posta le bean Francach agus téann sé go dtí an Fhrainc go minic. Beidh sé ag dul arís ann an seachtann seo chugainn ach ní bheidh sé timpeall an ceanntar ina bhfuilimid. Is as Arras a céile, cathair beag thart faoi Lille i dtúisceart na Fraince.

Ar an éitleán bhí mé suite ar aon taobh le bean ó Eamhan Mhaca agus iníon. Tá said ina gcónaí i Nevada agus tá said ag dul abhaile chun cúirt a thabhairt ar a gclan. Thosaigh said ag caint liom riamh mé a bheith i mo shuí, fiú. Cheap mé go raibh said chun bheith ag caint an t-am go léir ach tar éis uair a’ chloig d’imigh an beirt acu ina gcodladh, buíochas le Dia.

VELUX AND NEW FLOOR

NÍOS MÓ GRIANGRAFANNA

Christelle and Christophe sent us photos of the work we had completed in Montsoreau.
We have two new Velux skylights in the roof (hope we didn't violate the Protection of the Patrimoney zoning laws) and a shiney new lightweight cement floor in the grenier (attic).