Saturday, June 30, 2012
CHAMPIGNY-SUR-VEUDE
We passed through Champigny on the way to Richelieu.
There is a big chateau here that is owned by an American lawyer but we declined to drop €5 to see it.
Champigny is on the Veude River and there is another river, the Mable, that flows through it, too. This Champigny is not the same as the Champigny of the wine region.
Friday, June 29, 2012
THE END OF THE WORLD
It's always a treat to see the tapestries in the chateau and then cross the river to see the modern interpretation.
I did that while Rich walked downtown. We had lunch together in the Place de Ralliement (galettes and cider and strong coffee). Then we took the new tram going north (there is as yet only one line) and got off at CHU Hôpital. We walked along the Maine to the museum where the "Chant du Monde" is housed.
Lurçat was so impressed with the 14th Century tapestries that he created "Le Chant du Monde". Unfortunately, there is no guide that connects the two works. Which aspects of the Apocalypse inspired Lurçat? What did he see in the original work that inspired his own creation? Which parts of his work represent his own philosophical or religious views? I wish the guide had said a little more about how the two works reflect each other.
ANGERS DAY TRIP
ANGERS WALKABOUT
We spent the day in Angers. We took the early train from Saumur with the commuters. It's only about 20 minutes.
Breakfast in the Saint Aubin district. There was a huge abbey here in the 12th Century but now the church is gone, leaving only the tower and an open plaza. Many of the abbey's other buildings have been converted into government buildings.
After breakfast we went to the tourist office to buy a CityPass. For €12 the pass allows entry into most of the city's attractions. With our map in hand we walked through the city center and up the hill to the chateau.
Was this the place where Diarmuid MacMurchú agreed the sale of Ireland to the Normans with Henri II?
The biggest change in the castle was the new roof on the chapel of Rene I. There was a fire here in 2009 and each of the previous times that we have visited, this part of the castle has been closed. But now it is rebuilt and open again.
We spent the whole morning wandering about the castle. We climbed the ramparts and walked around the walls. When we had had enough we walked through the little streets surrounding the castle to the Cathedral of Saint Maurice.
Even non-Muslims must wear the headscarf in the mosque.
We spent the day in Angers. We took the early train from Saumur with the commuters. It's only about 20 minutes.
Breakfast in the Saint Aubin district. There was a huge abbey here in the 12th Century but now the church is gone, leaving only the tower and an open plaza. Many of the abbey's other buildings have been converted into government buildings.
After breakfast we went to the tourist office to buy a CityPass. For €12 the pass allows entry into most of the city's attractions. With our map in hand we walked through the city center and up the hill to the chateau.
Was this the place where Diarmuid MacMurchú agreed the sale of Ireland to the Normans with Henri II?
The biggest change in the castle was the new roof on the chapel of Rene I. There was a fire here in 2009 and each of the previous times that we have visited, this part of the castle has been closed. But now it is rebuilt and open again.
We spent the whole morning wandering about the castle. We climbed the ramparts and walked around the walls. When we had had enough we walked through the little streets surrounding the castle to the Cathedral of Saint Maurice.
Even non-Muslims must wear the headscarf in the mosque.
Thursday, June 28, 2012
NO PAINS DE DIANE
Our bakery is getting a makeover.
Two years ago Aux Pains de Diane was bought by a young couple who have slowly begun to put their own mark on the bakery. Now it looks like they are ready to rebrand.
Monday, June 25, 2012
SACHÉ - CALDER - BALZAC
The village of Saché. Calder had a studio here.
Balzac's bedroom where he did most of his writing. Balzac was a freeloader who spent lots of time here (when he wasn't hiding from his creditors) but wouldn't drink their coffee.
Chateau de Saché
CALDER AND BALZAC IN THE SAME DAY
MONTSOREAU - ÎLE-BOUCHARD - SACHÉ
Church of Saint Gilles (the Virgin appeared here in 1947. Jeanne d'Arc also appeared here in the 1400's. The Duke of Windsor made an appearance in 2012).
We hit the road for Richelieu, intending to stop and have lunch there but instead wandered through all the little villages on the road to Île Bouchard. Everything was closed there too, partly from it being Monday but mostly from it being The Great Recession. We did a walkabout. Île Bouchard is on the Vienne river. The original island is connected by two bridges. There's an upper town and a lower town. We walked through the lower town first, ending up at the Saint Gilles church. In 1947, a group of children had the Virgin and Saint Michael appear to them in this church. It was interesting to read the account of the "apparition" and the historical and social context of such things. According to the church history, France was on the verge of civil war. The Virgin called on the children to pray for France. People have been doing that in this church ever since, but the businesses that closed during the Recession are still closed. The sinners have triumphed.
The Duke of Windsor tries out a new knot.
There were only two restaurants open. The Auberge d'Île was very fancy-schmanzy and equally pricey. We crossed the street to the Auberge de Pavillon Bleu where they had a prix-fixe lunch for €11. We sat outside and drank a pichet of red wine with our Chicken a la Basquaise. And we had another pichet with the crème brûlée and peach tart.
Church of Saint Gilles (the Virgin appeared here in 1947. Jeanne d'Arc also appeared here in the 1400's. The Duke of Windsor made an appearance in 2012).
We hit the road for Richelieu, intending to stop and have lunch there but instead wandered through all the little villages on the road to Île Bouchard. Everything was closed there too, partly from it being Monday but mostly from it being The Great Recession. We did a walkabout. Île Bouchard is on the Vienne river. The original island is connected by two bridges. There's an upper town and a lower town. We walked through the lower town first, ending up at the Saint Gilles church. In 1947, a group of children had the Virgin and Saint Michael appear to them in this church. It was interesting to read the account of the "apparition" and the historical and social context of such things. According to the church history, France was on the verge of civil war. The Virgin called on the children to pray for France. People have been doing that in this church ever since, but the businesses that closed during the Recession are still closed. The sinners have triumphed.
The Duke of Windsor tries out a new knot.
There were only two restaurants open. The Auberge d'Île was very fancy-schmanzy and equally pricey. We crossed the street to the Auberge de Pavillon Bleu where they had a prix-fixe lunch for €11. We sat outside and drank a pichet of red wine with our Chicken a la Basquaise. And we had another pichet with the crème brûlée and peach tart.
Sunday, June 24, 2012
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